Phoebe Hearst would have loved Cafe Ohlone, the 40-seat, reservations-only restaurant in Berkeley, located on the Bancroft Street side of the Museum of Anthropology that bears Hearst’s name. 虽然很难说赫斯特是更喜欢棕褐色的橡树果浓汤还是鹿肉蘑菇炖汤, which features hand-gathered chanterelle, oyster, and morel mushrooms, 赫斯特的确是奥隆一家的朋友. Indeed, she was their neighbor.
“她仍然被长辈们称为菲比阿姨，”Cafe Ohlone的联合创始人文森特·梅迪纳说. “Hearst lived in a mansion immediately across a creek from the Alisal Rancheria, where our family lived until the 1920s. She employed Ohlone girls and young women, 在bbin游戏官网人民极度困难的时候提供一些经济保障. There are stories,” he adds, “about how, after they were done working, 她会让他们站在自己小屋的屋顶上，一到家就挥手致意, 确保他们都安全渡过了小溪. She cared for the families.”
As a friend of these families, 赫斯特(1842-1919)可能不会那么迷恋她的同名机构的行动, 和加州大学的其他学生一样吗, Berkeley, sits on Ohlone land that was stolen from the tribe. 事实证明，这还不是奥龙家族所遭受的最严重的侮辱. “1925年，学校错误地宣布bbin游戏官网民族灭绝,” Medina says, 这导致bbin游戏官网家族失去了联邦的认可, 这是bbin游戏官网曾祖父母真正经历过的.”
除了收集编织篮子和其他由加州各地的土著工匠制作的文化物品, 该大学的人类学家还收集了无数的人类遗骸. “他们从bbin游戏官网的墓地里移走了成千上万的祖先，”梅迪纳说. 如今，他们的遗骨仍被藏在赫斯特博物馆. As of spring 2023, the museum is closed 直到遣返遗骸的问题解决为止.
Given this fraught history, dining at Cafe Ohlone, 在那里，固定套餐的价格可能超过每人100美元, 显然不仅仅是为了吃点东西. In fact, Ohlone咖啡馆的中心任务之一是, as Medina puts it, 不断提醒人们奥隆人就在这里, that our culture is alive, that we’ve never left our home, and that we’ll be here tomorrow. Before every meal, bbin游戏官网与客人分享bbin游戏官网为什么要做这项工作的背景, speaking honestly about our history, 从殖民之前的时代到bbin游戏官网今天所处的位置. 当人们知道了这些事情，bbin游戏官网相信他们不会不知道这些事情.”
当然，食物是体验一种文化的可靠方式. In the case of Ohlone cuisine, though, 挑战不仅在于学习如何品尝新口味，还在于消除人们对美洲原住民烹饪的先入之见.
“Oftentimes when I was a child,” Medina recalls, “I’d pick up a book on California Indians, and everything was described so disrespectfully. Acorn soup would be referred to as ‘acorn gruel.“但制作橡子是一个漫长的过程——从开始到结束制作橡子汤大约需要六个月的时间。, and even longer to make acorn bread. It involves gathering the acorns, curing them, preparing the flour, leaching out the tannic acid, cooking the acorn into the soup, and then cooking it down further. 在传统上经过旧金山湾的鲑鱼洄游期间, salmon that had been caught and smoked would be dipped into that acorn soup; the oils of the salmon would blend so nicely with the sweetness of the prepared acorn. bbin游戏官网的食物非常优雅精致，”梅迪纳说.
作为一家户外餐厅，Cafe Ohlone被山谷橡树、梧桐树和一座建成的拉马达遮蔽. “空间本身代表着生活文化，”梅迪纳说. “你可以穿过一个鲍鱼幕，后面是一个充满植物的贝壳丘. bbin游戏官网总是为长辈和家人留一张桌子，以防有人想进来和bbin游戏官网一起吃饭. bbin游戏官网的长辈坐在餐桌的上端，你可以看到他们感觉自己是多么的有代表性.”
You can be a part of this family, too, 虽然你在奥隆咖啡馆的体验可能只持续几个小时, 你对奥龙族的了解将伴随你的余生.
考虑到所有因素，这些教训比你想象的更有希望. “Colonization caused a lot of sadness, no question about that,” Medina says, “but for too many thousands of years to count, our people lived good, happy, meaningful, sophisticated, and rich lives.” In the end, Medina says, 这个故事讲述了“人们如何超越殖民的艰辛，保持文化的活力”, even though a lot of unfair things happened, 展现了bbin游戏官网的人民对bbin游戏官网文化的热爱, the land, and family. 透过那面镜头看bbin游戏官网——胜利、胜利、坚持、力量和权力的镜头. 这些都是bbin游戏官网希望人们将bbin游戏官网与之联系在一起的特质.”
